The mast is touching the bottom and the leeward float hatch cover is submerged. By rotating the boat around the axis of the mast the hatch can be brought to the surface.

In In this trial by John Fairclough the mast is supported by a float. The boat is starting to adopt the ‘television aerial’ position. If the mast were on the bottom there would be less room under the boat.

In the incident shown left the rescue boat has just arrived, the helm is still in the water and the boat is already adopting the ‘TV aerial’ position

The helm has been taken aboard the rescue boat and the mast raised to the surface. No further progress could be made, however. Eventually the boat was dragged to deeper water where it could almost invert, the leeward float was flooded and the classic recovery attempted. The effect of the current filling the sail below the water complicated matters further, however, and even with a crewman aboard the boat could not be righted. A rope was then attached to the upper float and power from the safety boat used to pull the boat upright.


In shallow water unassisted recovery may not be possible. Use available assistance to get the boat onto its side (as opposed to the ‘TV aerial’ position) and then use the normal catamaran recovery technique which is to use a powerboat to pull on the upper float and thus drag the boat upright. HOWEVER Patrick Lyon once recovered from a shallow water capsize and then continued racing, losing about five minutes in the process!


After some less than stellar racing results in light winds I obtained a Monster Mainsail from L & R sails of Brisbane.. The sail was originally very hard to hoist due to excessive luff round and high friction. There is a fix for this - give me a ring for details.  The sail has a fashionable square top and is is great fun on light wind days. You are not over-pressed in 13 kts of wind. The sail generates lots of weather helm and the mast has to be raked forward aggressively to control this; on the other hand, downwind the boat is in balance and does not carry lee-helm. In very light conditions it is hard to get the battens to pop as you tack.

Does it win races? A few; but it is not a magic bullet - don’t let them change your handicap! I would not, however, be without it in the light conditions which we seem to have had at our club for the last couple of years.

Tech Tip:

If you get a stone jammed in your daggerboard case when launching you will only be able to get it out by putting the boat back on its trolley and getting underneath it to prise the stone out……….. UNLESS you have obtained a very long screwdriver from Halfords or wherever which may enable you to get the stone out from the cockpit and thus get you to the start on time!



TROLLEY WELD FAILURES (EARLIER MODELS ONLY) The lightweight launching trolley has been breaking at the weld above the axle. Don’t overload it or use ratchet straps when towing.  Read the very interesting letter on the subject from Chris Kitchen below.

Note the crack above the axle. A repair has been effected by welding substantial alluminium plates  either side of the box section. NB More recent trollies have had this problem designed out of them.


We would like to make a few comments about the issues raised in your forum about the Weta beach dolly.
We agree that the trailer still needs more development as under certain circumstances the dolly can bend behind the axle.

The dolly design is a balance of weight/strength. The key concept of the Weta is about being easy to rig/launch etc and be a one man operation. To achieve this a heavy dolly does not work. The dolly has seen many improvements over the years with increasing the rail sections from 90x20 to 100x20, larger diameter wheels with heavy duty tyres etc. The next run of dollies will see new hull supports giving less resistance when
launching in surf and an extra aluminium plate section spanning the axle area to eliminate the HAZ part of the dolly where the failures have occurred. With less fibreglass in the new support design the weight increase should be minimal.

These improvements will not solve the bending situation unless careful thoughtis put into strapping management.Heavy duty ratchet straps are not to be used on a Weta. Simple hand tensioned straps with no mechanical advantage are best. The Weta are very secure in their moulded supports and just need to be held in position without bouncing. We strongly recommend to trail the boat free of any equipment in the cockpit,
however - provided the dolly is correctly supported- you can tie the sails in the front of the cockpit.

It seems many issues arise from combi trailers where the dolly is unsupported behind the axle. A combi trailer is fine if it has light suspension to match and absorb the bumps. Trailing a Weta on a double axle 2 ton trailer without supporting the trailer full length will end in tears. In this situation take off the beach dolly
wheels and put chocks under the longitudinal rails. For a lightweight combi trailer you need just one strap over the Weta main hull in front of the beach trailer axle area. You should not only tie the bow of the Weta to the beach dolly but you should strap the bow of the Weta onto the road trailer. This will stop some of the
bouncing on the rear support.

The amas are fine just by using the mainsail downhaul S hook to secure the grab straps on the front of the tramps and the mainsheet S hook for the rear tramp grab straps.

If your beach dolly does need repair we suggest welding a 400mm aluminium box section or 5mm plate to strengthen the area around the axle. This can be easily done on the outside of the main rail or if there is no room on a Combi trailer you can cut a section of the cross beam and slip it on the inside. This should be an easy fix for a local engineer that is capable of welding aluminium.

We hope this is helpful as we are not trying to cut corners skimping on materials but we want to manufacture a trailer which compliments the function of the Weta.

We would like to thank you for your continuing support and wish you all well in the coming season.

Chris and Roger Kitchen

Gelcoat Colour

   The white gelcoat colour (officially grey) is RAL 7035RAL 9003

   If you have the new (2013) white white it is RAL 9003

  obtainable from East Coast Fibreglass Supplies in South Shields                                 .

Masthead Halyard Sheave. There have been instances in which wire pennant on the mainsail halyard has jumped off the sheave and slid down the side as far as the axle. It is then impossible to lower the main and the mast has to be dropped with the sail up. There is now a fix for this - Pete Cailes has the replacement bits. There has been quite a lot of discussion on the international forum about this.

END PLUGS for the carbon tubes. The ends of the cross beams (akas) will wear where they rub on the fibreglass of the hull holes; the heel of the mast will get a bit scraggy eventually as will the inboard end of the bowsprit. Plastic end caps for all three are fitted as standard to newer boats and are available for retrofit to older ones. I got mine from a mail order chandlery in the States at about three times the list price.  Pete Cailes may have some.

Masthead Halyard Sheave. There have been instances when the mainsail halyard has jumped off the sheave and slid down the side. It is often impossible to lower the main in these circumstances and the mast has to be dropped. There is now a fix for this - Pete Cailes has the replacement bits

Weta stored with its mast up and amas stowed.  Some clubs don’t like multihulls and either ban them or charge excessive parking fees. Patrick Lyon (ex International Canoe sailor) realized that the Weta is just a canoe with stabilizers.……

Modify the shrouds to take a grab handle. Lead the jib sheets to the grab handles to provide the lateral support. The main halyard is taken back to the mainsheet anchorage to provide a backstay. Stow the amas in the usual way and then tighten the forestay. Well, he says it works!

Plockton (near the Skye Bridge).